Nepal Report
Written by John Grotrian
July 15, 2007 |
On February 26th, 2007 Homma Kancho arrived in Katmandu where Scott Olson
Sensei, the Nepal Aikido Club and I met him at the airport. The enthusiastic
group had prepared a warm welcome complete with a banner and flower garlands
called malas.
A few hours earlier, Scott Sensei and I had been met by members of the
N.A.C. shortly after having landed.
During Homma Kancho's week long seminar many activities and meetings were
arranged, ranging from visiting rural temples and monasteries to press
conferences and television interviews
The seminar's morning classes were held in Patan, formerly the kingdom
of Lalitpur, across the river from Katmandu.
Taught by Homma Kancho, the seminar was attended by members of the N.A.C.
as well as several karate students. Front rolls and break-falls were practiced
with caution due to firm mats and luckily no injuries occurred. The weather
in early march was cool and very pleasant for practice.
On March 5 Homma Kancho continued on his tour of Asia, leaving Scott Sensei
in charge to complete the intensive training seminar.
It was at this point that we began to hold practice at Tripushwar Olympic
stadium near to the dojo which hosted Homma Kancho's seminar in 2006.
Scott Sensei conducted morning classes at the new location, a friendly
Judo Dojo, with tatami mats which facilitated a greater learning curve
in ukemi. An average of twelve to fifteen students attended class held
from 8:30 am to 10:30am.
Rapid progress was taking place in learning, perhaps due in part to Homma
Kancho's and Scott Sensei's emphasis on presenting fundamental principles
and concepts using basic techniques as the launch pad for the methods
of Aikido.
Scott Sensei's departure March 12, marked the end of the 2007 Nepal Aikido
Seminar and the beginning of general classes. Class continued to be held
at the Central Judo Hall of Tripushwar stadium, although with fewer students
in attendance than the previous two weeks. However, the N.A.C. core members
continued forward with great zeal.
Between eight to ten students attended every morning, and we began to
see an increase in students with no previous experience in the martial
arts. These devoted students developed skills quickly and their rapid
progress was clearly evident.
Most days began with a knock on the door from the Bhais* (*little brothers).
They would bounce into the room chanting "breakfast John Dhai, come
upstairs!", make one or two laps and bounce out of the room again.
Warm Buffalo's milk or hot Chia on the porch with a view of the neighborhood
springing into the day and the great foothills back dropping the Katmandu
valley with it's 6.5 million inhabitants.
The city had a fresh, cool air every morning from the previous evening's
rain shower. Almost everyday in April the afternoon heat would give way
to thick clouds followed by thunder and lightning demonstrations, accompanied
by plump rain drops for the remainder of the night. The weather was timely
and would wait for most people to get home before the evening showers,
but often there were a handful of Aikidoka welcomed by the rain as they
left evening weapons class.
The nightly ablutions would be almost dry by morning and a mist would
lift from the valley floor to drift off between the giant hills.
All the while the Bhainis* (*little sisters) and Bhais would be preparing
for the school day, braiding hair and ironing uniforms with mother helping
to make sure that everybody was ready.
Amma, (my adoptive mother/ Nepali teacher) would chat with me and smile
patiently, often laughing at our apparent communication barriers. "How
many people in practice today?". Our sign for practice was a small
yokomenuchi. The sign for "how many" was to count the fingers
on each hand and then turn them upward in question.
I would answer "Eleven or twelve people Amma." By this time
I had been taught to count to twenty as well as the days of the week.
Being able to count in Nepali proved to be very useful during Jo and Ken
kata practice.
Over a light breakfast around the dinning room table my homestay host
and N.A.C. treasurer, Raj Kumar Gurung, or Raju Dhai* (*elder brother)
would discus that morning's class, dojo news, organizing and planning
the days events.
At eight o'clock we would wave goodbye and walk together through the already
bustling neighborhood saying hello to people as we made our way to the
nearby taxi stand. Finding our very dependable friend in his taxi, Raju
Dhai and I would jump in, off we would go, relying on side streets and
short cuts.
For the next fifteen minutes, on the drive to practice, all kinds of wonders
could be seen from the vehicle's window. Perhaps a massive chariot being
refurbished for the upcoming festival, demonstrators holding peaceful
protests, an elegantly dressed elephant walking down the street for a
wedding celebration, or perhaps a bull similar to that on the Nippon-Kan
logo making his way through traffic).
If one were to look back to catch a second glimpse, the next wonder would
be passing by faster than one can aim a camera.
Arriving at the Dojo with a few minutes to spare we would order a round
of milk chia or black pepper tea. Various members from different disciplines
of the martial arts community would greet each other with handshakes and
share the daily news.
A few minutes before 9 o'clock students from the previous judo class would
begin leaving the dojo with a bow, one by one.
The students who had gathered outside for the upcoming Aikido class would
wait and with the same reverence, bow and enter the dojo, one by one.
Everyone would quickly change and bow onto the mat. After a little confusion
and some direction from a senpai, new students would space themselves
evenly in seiza, backs straight and as still as statues.
"Rei, Onageishimas!"
"Ich, ni, san, shi, go!"
"Ae-toh, Ae-sah"
"Front rolls please, onageishimas!"
Watching the expressions of people in class, it seemed that myo-ukemi
was one of the most challenging aspects of our daily practice. Every morning
you could see students coming up against their barriers, pushing the comfort
zone, looking at the problem, experimenting with solutions. "How
do I do front rolls without so much pain and bruising?"
Moving through stages of being self conscious, unsure or hesitant yet
always determined, day after day facing personal boundaries.
Morning class was divided into warm up exercises then exercises in ukemi
followed by techniques.
We would look at a functional principle within a technique, using various
attacks, trying both omote and ura. The theme or motivating theory would
lead naturally to other similar techniques and in this manner there seemed
to be a sense of exploration, a sense of discovery.
After training for the majority of class in this way, practice would shift
to Kokyu Dosa or, some days, endurance conditioning depending on the class
dynamics and the energy level.
Another favorite way to wrap up morning practice was with a page from
"Children and the Martial Arts: an aikido point of view". Fun
to watch and even more fun to play, "Sheiko Tag" with a group
of usually some what stern adults all giggling and shouting like school
children, rolling around the mat for the last five minutes of class.
Looking around the faces, some students commuted for more than an hour,
one way, every morning while also managing school or work responsibilities.
One young man rode his motorcycle from a neighboring city four times a
day to attend morning and evening class while still maintaining his duties
throughout the day.
Another young man taught a children's judo class early in the morning
on the other side of the city. He would then arrive for Aikido class before
going straight to his office job.
Some people would practice two hours of judo and then go straight into
two more hours of Aikido, every morning, followed by two more hours of
weapons class in the evening.
It appeared that everybody with their own individual situation shared
a commonality. A quality of intense enthusiasm for the practice of Aikido.
Only recently introduced on a broad scale in Nepal, Aikido is not as widely
known as other martial arts.
The energy of the many dedicated students is bringing the art to flower
right there in the foot hills of the Himalayas).
"Rei. Domo arigato gozamashita."
Class ends with many bows and "thank yous'" in formal yet jovial
manner.
Some days, the class would gather after practice at a nearby tea shop
for an al-fresco cup of chia or mango juice. This allowed for the opportunity
for interaction outside of the dojo, creating a feeling that as a group
of people we did more than practice martial arts together. Another kind
of communication took place over theses tea time conversations, strengthening
the budding Aikido community because in fact we had all become friends.
"Jaum?", "Jaum!" ("we move?", "we move!")
Back to the N.A.C. headquarters for a quick lunch. It was there that a
lot of behind the scenes preparations took place. Meetings, phone calls,
networking, interviews and a lot of the leg work that was involved in
launching the newest martial art in Nepal happened from that office.
Finishing the 3 o'clock chia, having gathered up our keiko gis' draped
around the office to dry from that mornings work out, we would jump on
the motorcycles, using side streets and alley ways to beat the afternoon
traffic, arriving at the Olympic stadium in no time at all.
A dozen or so students gathered around the dojo entrance and again bowing
deeply, entered their place of training.
Evening weapons class, 5pm- 7pm, seemed to attract a greater diversity
in participants. Older and younger people, experienced and inexperienced
martial artists alike, all showed great interest in the Bokken and Jo.
On a number of occasions, there seemed to be a recurring misunderstanding.
In our opening kamai, some new students would be found holding their bokken
upside down, that is to say curved up.
This was a curious at first, until we realized that perhaps there was
some culture shock taking place between the Nepalese khukuri and the Japanese
katana.
The khukuri is a traditional tool of Nepal which is shaped like a quarter
moon with its cutting edge on the concave side. Anyone who has used a
khukuri knows very well that if you hold it curved down (hence blade up)
there is an accident just waiting to happen.
Amused with the discovery of the confusion, members of the Nepal Aikido
Club considered modifying the bokken by sanding off the shinogi lines
but in the end decided to go with the more traditional (although slightly
foreign) method of handling.
Weapons class was divided between; the suburi and shinogi movements, Kenjutsu
to Taijutsu relationships as well as kata training alone or with partners.
From time to time the electricity would go out, leaving us with no light
with which to practice by. However this was regarded as only a very minor
set-back and did not dampen the warrior spirit at all. As the last of
the sun's rays left the mat space, we would jokingly exclaim "ninja
class!".
What was amazing was that in a space small enough to warrant caution even
under lighted conditions, a class of twelve to fifteen people could perform
proficiently without any collision of jo or bokken. This was reflective
of the atmosphere of attentiveness and diligence that made for such positive
training.
During one evening class, while practicing katas with partners, a young
man approached and said "This isn't working, my partner is moving
to slow." It was apparent that the partners movements did not coincide.
The fellow being accused of moving to slowly came forward to announce
"it's not my fault, he's moving to fast." At this point we reflected
on a quote of Scott Sensei's that he had shared during the intensive seminar
in March.
"Sometimes it is your partners fault. Sometimes it is your partner's,
partner's fault."
This was cause for a good laugh and agreement that a middle ground was
called for. Perhaps it was not a matter of fault or where blame should
be placed, but rather a miscommunication preventing effective co-operation.
After some trial and error, counting through the kata together seemed
to help keep Jo and Ken on the same page.
Both on and off the mat there was a great emphasis placed upon etiquette,
politeness and discipline. This was in large the yard stick by which an
individual or dojo was measured and it permeated daily interactions. Even
in nightmare traffic jams there was a sense of courtesy and good natured
patience which seems so rarely afforded in western cities. In general
people were not afraid of strangers, making eye contact or joking with
each other in a casual back and forth manner. Even at night women, children
and the elders could be seen outdoors walking or chatting, enjoying the
cool air.
In business interactions (outside of the tourist havens) it seemed more
important to maintain a good reputation of honesty and generosity than
short term opportunistic gain, much like the old Spanish ideal of "quedar
bien" (to stay well). For example a vegetable stand owner was accountable
to their customers, creating a loyalty, a dependability. If it was perceived
that someone was dealing a less than honorable manner certainly they would
hear about it without reservation.
"Your taxi's meter is to high! This trip does not usually cost so
much."
"Yes, it's true, my meter is high, but with the cost of fuel and
inflation these daysc"
"If that is the case then say so, but it isn't correct to rig the
meter, you have to be able to look yourself in the mirror! Here is a few
extra rupees."
This kind of consideration for others seemed to be the rule, instead of
the exception.
On May 24th marked the end of the three month training period but in fact
it was only the beginning. Upon my departure Mr. Raj Kumar Gurung and
Mr. Rajesh Bista )set out to continue holding general classes, both morning
and evening at various dojo throughout Kathmandu. The foundation that
the dedicated Aikidoka of Nepal have built continues to grow and strengthen
without fail.
This opportunity was only made possible by a great number of people both
in America and Nepal whose tremendous efforts, perseverance and patience
saw that this mission was a success. There are many individuals and families
to whom I am greatly indebted for their generosity and kindness. Firstly
I wish thank Mr. and Mrs. Gurung who invited me into their home. Although
a stranger, I felt welcomed as family. I would also like to thank Mrs.
Sherpa for all of her families help and such delicious dinners. Also,
a very special thanks to all of the Nepal Aikido club board members and
students who I affectionately consider my Dhais* (*brothers). I am especially
grateful to Mr. Sitkar Rajbhandari for his great support, kindness and
leadership.
To Nippon-Kan's founder, Homma Kancho I am forever grateful. There are
no words sufficient to express my gratitude for the guidance, patience
and example he has given to myself as well as all of his students. We
are therefore obligated to make our actions a living testimony to his
teachings.
This experience was a wonderful adventure and nothing short of a dream
come true.
. Deri, Deri Danibad (Domo arigato gozaimashita) (Thank you)
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